Components
Crank length: the component almost nobody checks (and should)
July 12, 2026 · 5 min read
Crank length defines the diameter of the circle your feet draw. Most cyclists have never checked theirs — they ride whatever came on the bike, sized to the frame, not to their legs.
Find yours in 10 seconds
Look at the inner face of the crank arm, near the pedal axle: the length is engraved — typically 165, 170, 172.5 or 175 mm.
Starting range by inseam
- Inseam up to ~76 cm: 165 mm
- Inseam ~76–81 cm: 170 mm
- Inseam ~81–86 cm: 172.5 mm
- Inseam above ~86 cm: 175 mm
That's the reference table FitRide uses as a starting point. It isn't dogma — it's the centre of the sensible range for your leg length.
When shorter makes a real difference
Cranks that are too long close the hip and knee angles at the top of the stroke (12 o'clock). The signs: pinching at the front of the hip, knees striking the chest in an aero position, difficulty spinning high cadence. Going 5 mm shorter opens the top of the stroke with no practical power loss — the smaller lever is compensated with cadence.
Changed cranks? Re-set your saddle height: an arm 5 mm shorter calls for a saddle ~5 mm higher to keep the same extension at the bottom of the stroke.
Frequently asked questions
Do shorter cranks cost power?
In practice, no: the smaller lever is offset by slightly higher cadence. Studies show no meaningful power difference across 165–175 mm for the same rider.
Worth changing just for hip comfort?
If you have anterior hip pinching or ride long in a low position, it's one of the best value changes. First rule out a high/rearward saddle as the cause.
Does MTB follow the same logic?
Yes, with a bonus: shorter arms also increase ground clearance over rocks and roots — why many modern MTBs ship with 170 mm even in large sizes.
Ready to dial in your bike?
FitRide measures your real angles through your camera and returns an adjustment plan in cm — with re-analyses to compare after every change.
Get my bike fit